The Hawaiian subcollection with nearly 1,200 items is the only existing collection of its type in the nation. It documents the impact of numerous immigrant groups and illustrates the adaptation of costume to Hawaiian lifestyles. Prior to the arrival of Westerners Hawaiians wore garments made of Kapa. Women wore pa'u (skirts) and men wore malo (loincloths). In 1820, Hawaiian royal women asked the first missionary women to make them western-styled dresses. Because Hawaiian women were much larger than the missionary women their dress style was adapted. The resulting garment, the holoku, is a high necked, long sleeved dress with a yoke. At the same time the missionaries made chemises to wear under the holoku. Because these were short, they were called mu'umu'u and remained as undergarments until Hawaiian fabric was introduced and used for mu'umu'u in the 1930's. Hawaiian garments are characterized by a tubular silhouette with no horizontal waistline. Where fit is desired, such as in the contemporary holoku and holomu'u, long darts and princess lines are used.